Paiste Brass-Tones 20" Power Ride - Revision history

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Type85 at 05:48, 23 October 2022

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 *Note: I exchange the terms "tarnish", "corrosion" and "oxidation" throughout this article, my intention is they have the same meaning.
-===Cleaning experience attained over decades of cleaning cymbals:===
+===Experience attained over decades of cleaning cymbals:===
 ----
 I have been using and cleaning Paiste cymbals since 1980. Since day one, I have strived to find the perfect cleaner that won't remove the clear coat or labels from the cymbal but will clean off fingerprints and oxidation.<br>

@@ Line 46: / Line 46: @@
 From my experience of owning both B8 and B20 cymbals, I have found that B8 cymbals tend to oxidize/tarnish very quickly (it's assumed this is from the high copper to tin ratio) if they are not coated or if the clear coat has been worn off, this can happen in a matter of hours (see pictures below).<br>
 I speculate that when Paiste first produced their B8 cymbals in the mid 1960s, they realized they would have to coat them in order to keep them from immediately tarnishing and oxidizing. There was no way they could sell new cymbals with the change in color and with dark fingerprints on them. I believe this is when they started applying a clear coat on their new B8 cymbals and soon after, applied it to all thier other series.<br>
-The salt and sweat, from your fingers tends to be mildly corrosive to the alloy, especially B8, this tends to work its way through the clear coat and start to eat away or oxidize the copper in the alloy (in severe cases, if left in that condition of years). When the oxidation is removed (usually by a mild acid in the cleaner), the oxidized material will be removed as well. You see the same effect but on a much larger scale when rust has been removed from steel and the pitting is revealed. After removing the tarnish(i.e. with Flitz tarnish spray) what you have left is a smooth matte finish, not shiny, but rather dull looking (see picture below.<br>
+The salt and sweat, from your fingers tends to be mildly corrosive to the alloy, especially B8, this tends to work its way through the clear coat and start to eat away or oxidize the copper in the alloy (in severe cases, if left in that condition of years). When the oxidation is removed (usually by a mild acid in the cleaner), the oxidized material will be removed as well. You see the same effect but on a much larger scale when rust has been removed from steel and the pitting is revealed. After removing the tarnish(i.e. with Flitz tarnish spray) what you have left is a smooth matte finish, not shiny, but rather dull looking (see picture below).<br>
-When a polish is applied, you can bring back the shine of the cymbal, but it will never regain the original texture/finish because material was removed from the oxidation process permanently changing the surface texture, the cymbal will have more of a "brilliant" polished finish (see pictures below) after cleaning.<br>
+When polish is applied, you can bring back the shine of the cymbal, but it will never regain the original texture/finish. Some of the alloy was converted/removed from the oxidation process and cleaning permanently changing the surface texture, the cymbal will have more of a "brilliant" polished finish (see pictures to the right and below) after cleaning.<br>
 <br>
 <gallery>

@@ Line 41: / Line 41: @@
 *Note: I exchange the terms "tarnish", "corrosion" and "oxidation" throughout this article, my intention is they have the same meaning.
-'''Cleaning experience attained over decades of cleaning cymbals:'''
+===Cleaning experience attained over decades of cleaning cymbals:===
 ----
 I have been using and cleaning Paiste cymbals since 1980. Since day one, I have strived to find the perfect cleaner that won't remove the clear coat or labels from the cymbal but will clean off fingerprints and oxidation.<br>
@@ Line 60: / Line 60: @@
 *Note: Abrasives will tend to remove ink logos and clear coat, acids will break down the dark stains of tarnish/oxidation.<br><br>
-'''To clean or not to clean, that is the question!'''
+===To clean or not to clean, that is the question!===
 ----
 For decades and decades, there has always been the controversy on whether or not you should clean your cymbals or let them oxidize tarnish to build up a “patina”.<br>
 Many say that this builds “character” in the cymbal, the basic truth is, dirt and corrosion tarnish will dull the cymbal reduce the high frequencies and sustain. How much of an effect this has on the overall sound is very hard to quantify, but careful A/B tests before and after cleaning does show some difference.<br>
 My take on this whole situation is when a new cymbal is originally designed/developed, the designer doesn't take it and bury it in this backyard for three months trying to get it to oxidise, tarnish and corrode and then say "that's the sound I’m looking for"!<br>
-A new cymbal sound is developed when the cymbal is clean, not dirty and tarnished. Therefore, my thinking is; I want my vintage cymbal to resemble as closely as possible the cymbal that left the factory when it was made.<br>
+A new cymbal sound is developed when the cymbal is clean, not dirty and tarnished. Therefore, my thinking is; I want my vintage cymbal to resemble as closely as possible the cymbal that left the factory when it was made. I can't account for wear and tear and metal fatigue, but what I can do is make the cymbal as clean as it was when it left the factory.<br>
-I can't account for wear and tear and metal fatigue, but what I can do is make the cymbal as clean as it was when it left the factory.<br>
+Letting cymbal tarnish and build up a patina is great for jazz drummers if you're looking for a dark, dull, trashy, dirty sound, I am not of that school, so I try to get my cymbals to resemble as closely as possible when they were created! The last point is the visual aspect: because of the hammering techniques and use of a clear coat, Paiste cymbals have a distinct look and shine compared to any other brand.<br><br>
 Here's my experience with several different cleaners I have used and tested, I put them in order of most gentle to most abrasive.<br>
 I have also added two ratings for each cleaner effectiveness and abrasiveness each coating/protector for their effectiveness (scale 1 to 10):

@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 My take on this whole situation is when a new cymbal is originally designed/developed, the designer doesn't take it and bury it in this backyard for three months trying to get it to oxidise, tarnish and corrode and then say "that's the sound I’m looking for"!<br>
 A new cymbal sound is developed when the cymbal is clean, not dirty and tarnished. Therefore, my thinking is; I want my vintage cymbal to resemble as closely as possible the cymbal that left the factory when it was made.<br>
-I can't account for wear and tear and metal fatigue, but what I can do is make the symbol as clean as it was when it left the factory.<br>
+I can't account for wear and tear and metal fatigue, but what I can do is make the cymbal as clean as it was when it left the factory.<br>
-Letting cymbal tarnish and build up a patina is great for jazz drummers if you're looking for a dark, dull, trashy, dirty sound, I am not of that school. So I try to get my cymbals to resemble as closely as possible how they were originally intended to sound when they were created!<br>
+Letting cymbal tarnish and build up a patina is great for jazz drummers if you're looking for a dark, dull, trashy, dirty sound, I am not of that school, so I try to get my cymbals to resemble as closely as possible when they were created! The last point is the visual aspect: because of the hammering techniques and use of clear coat, Paiste cymbals have a distinct look and shine compared to any other brand.<br>

@@ Line 86: / Line 86: @@
 Effectiveness: 3<br>
 Abrasiveness: 0<br>
-Better cleaner than plain dish detergent, more effective at removing fingerprints, rub it in until it dries then wash the cymbal with soap & water. Will leave a nice shine when dried.
+Better cleaner than plain dish detergent, more effective at removing fingerprints, rub it in until it dries then wash the cymbal with soap & water, will leave a nice shine when dried.
 <gallery>
@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 Abrasiveness: 0<br>
-"This one goes to eleven!<br>
+"This one goes to eleven"!<br>
-Flitz tarnish remover spray will breakdown the worst green tarnish/oxidation in seconds (see video below). The drawback is it will leave the alloy "bare/exposed" and ready to oxidize/tarnish immediately, the cymbal must be washed with soap & water afterward to remove the remnants and then dried ASAP. It must then be coated ASAP before it starts to change color! Wear cloves, I found it irritated my hands, I also found pouring it on a paper towel and wiping it on is much more effective than spaying, also, the mist created by the spray is very irritating to the eyes ('''do not get in you eyes!''').<br>
+Flitz tarnish remover spray will breakdown the worst green tarnish/oxidation in seconds (see video below).<br>
-Do not leave on for more than about a minute or the cymbal will start to change color and eventually turn black if left to dry (ask me how I know this!)! For extremely tarnished corroded cymbal, I used a worn slightly abrasive scotch brite pad to "work" the worst parts of the cymbal.<br>
+The drawback is it will leave the alloy "bare/exposed" and ready to oxidize/tarnish immediately, the cymbal must be washed with soap & water afterward to remove the remnants and then dried ASAP. It must then be coated ASAP before it starts to change color!<br>
 '''Contains: Dioxane and "Urea Monohydro-Chloride" which is acidic.'''

@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 Wikipedia:<br>
 <i>"Copper does not react with water, but it does slowly react with atmospheric oxygen to form a layer of brown-black copper oxide which, unlike the rust that forms on iron in moist air, protects the underlying metal from further corrosion (passivation). A green layer of verdigris (copper carbonate) can often be seen on old copper structures, such as the roofing of many older buildings and the Statue of Liberty. Copper tarnishes when exposed to some sulfur compounds, with which it reacts to form various copper sulfides."<br>
 "Tin resists corrosion from water, but can be corroded by acids and alkalis. Tin can be highly polished and is used as a protective coat for other metals, a protective oxide (passivation) layer prevents further oxidation"</i><br>

@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 File:PXL 20221013 225354956.jpg|comparison to a coated cymbal
 File:Georgy boy 20 stambul 65 2.jpg|This cymbal has had the oxidation chemically removed, what is left is a dull "matte" finish
-</gallery><br>
+</gallery>
-* Cleaning tip: Always, '''Always''' rub/wipe the cleaner along the lathing grooves (in a curved motion) when cleaning a cymbal, never "across" them! I have have seen countless cleaning videos where the user rubs the cleaner in a back and forth pattern across the lathing or in small circles like when waxing a car! Doing this will wear off the clear coat on the top of the lathing groves and leave swirl marks all over the cymbal (depending on how abrasive the cleaner is). It is also recommended you use the same technique when applying any type of coating/protector.<br><br>
+*Note: Abrasives will tend to remove ink logos and clear coat, acids will break down the dark stains of tarnish/oxidation.<br><br>
 '''To clean or not to clean, that is the question!'''
@@ Line 76: / Line 77: @@
 If the cymbal is relatively new, soap (dish detergent), water and a paper towel will get the salt, oil and dirt from your fingers off of the cymbal so it doesn't start to degrade the clear coat and corrode the alloy.
-Really only effective on newish cymbals.
+Really only effective on newer cymbals.
 <gallery>
 File:Dawn.png

@@ Line 60: / Line 60: @@
 '''To clean or not to clean, that is the question!'''
 ----
-<br>
+For decades and decades, there has always been the controversy on whether or not you should clean your cymbals or let them oxidize tarnish to build up a “patina”.<br>
@@ Line 173: / Line 178: @@
 <gallery>
-File:Shahl fix.jpg
+File:Stahl fix contents.jpg|contents
-File:Stahl fix contents.jpg
+File:Stahl fix advert.jpg|Original advert
-File:Mr muscle.jpg
+File:Shahl fix.jpg|Old bottle & formula
-File:PXL 20221021 034358758.jpg
+File:Mr muscle.jpg|New bottle & formula
-File:PXL 20220816 232559970.jpg
+File:PXL 20221021 034358758.jpg|Back of bottle
 </gallery>
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