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| − | __NOEDITSECTION__
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| − | == Wiki cymbal cleaning supplemental, aka: my journey to find the perfect cymbal cleaner!==
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| − | <div style="float:right">__TOC__</div>
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| − | [[File:PXL 20221009 004427967.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:Cleaners.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:PXL 20220816 233421428.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:PXL 20220911 224505455.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:Stambul 65 18 th cr sdie by side.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:Georgy boy trio.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:Wrecked to resurected.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:Triple.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:Super cleaned.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:PXL 20221009 004537068.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:PXL 20221009 004746437.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:PXL 20221009 004553206.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | [[File:PXL 20221009 015635796.jpg|thumb|right|350px|]]
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| − | Tarnish, corrosion, oxidation... what is it and how does it happen, A little chemistry!
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| − | <i>"Copper does not react with water, but it does slowly react with atmospheric oxygen to form a layer of brown-black copper oxide which, unlike the rust that forms on iron in moist air, protects the underlying metal from further corrosion (passivation). A green layer of verdigris (copper carbonate) can often be seen on old copper structures, such as the roofing of many older buildings[15] and the Statue of Liberty.[16] Copper tarnishes when exposed to some sulfur compounds, with which it reacts to form various copper sulfides."<br>
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| − | "Tin resists corrosion from water, but can be corroded by acids and alkalis. Tin can be highly polished and is used as a protective coat for other metals, a protective oxide (passivation) layer prevents further oxidation"</i>
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:PXL 20221013 012928742.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221013 012938473.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221013 225344046.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221013 225354956.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | Here's my experience with several different cleaners suggested by drummers, I put them in order of most gentle to most abrasive::
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| − | ----
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| − | ==== Soap & water====
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| − | If it's relatively new, soap (dish detergent), water and a VERY soft scrubbing pad made from plastic, NOT copper or metal! You need to get the salt, oil and dirt from your fingers off of the cymbal so it doesn't start to corrode the bronze.
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| − |
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| − | ==== Cymbal soap:====
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Cymbal soap.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ==== Flitz spray/tarnish remover:====
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| − | Flitz tarnish remover spray will get rid of the green tarnish/oxidation in seconds, the drawback is it will leave the alloy "bare/exposed" and ready to oxidize/tarnish immediately.
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| − | Because of all the copper, B8 cymbals tend to be very susceptible to this (see picture below), they must be coated right away, b20 cymbals are much less prone to this.
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Flitz spray.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034527518.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | [https://youtu.be/yR0Ss4cKd5I Flits spray in action]
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| − |
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| − | ==== Blue magic:====
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| − | Smelly and messy but easy on ink labels but will take them off if rubbed long and hard enough!
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| − | is the mildest, smelly from the ammonia but is the most gentle on labels and clear coating.
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Blue magic.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034618658.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Flitz paste====
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| − | Good all around cleaner has tarnish remover chemicals in it, not nearly as messy as blue magic, will remove clear coat and labels if rubbed hard and long enough.
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Flitz.jpeg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034146821.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Paiste cymbal cleaner====
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| − | has tarnish remover chemicals in it, will remove clear coat and labels if rubbed hard and long enough.
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Paiste cleaner.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Mr. Muscle/stahl fix====
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| − | Paiste cleaner in the original bottle**! Has tarnish remover chemicals in it, will remove clear coat and labels if rubbed hard and long enough.
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| − | **My source was at the factory about 20+ years ago and saw the techs pouring Stahl fix from a large bulk container into the orange Paiste cymbal cleaner bottles, you can't get much more confirmation than that!
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| − | The formula did change around that time as well, another German friend has some of the last Paiste cleaner and he says the "smell" changed from the old 1990's cleaner but does smell like the current Mr. Muscle.
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| − | Possibly this is when SC Johnson bought them out and changed the name to "Mr. Muscle" (see the two pictures above)?
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| − | What I can also tell you is the cleaner contains a mild acid to break down the oxidation/tarnish, you can see it work as you apply it to the cymbal, the color changes.
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| − | Barkeeper's soft cleanser has oxalic acid and is much stronger that the acid in Mr. Muscle.
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| − | Ingredients for Mr. Muscle, aluminum oxide is the abrasive and there's a couple of different acids in it:
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Shahl fix.jpg
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| − | File:Stahl fix contents.jpg
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| − | File:Mr muscle.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034358758.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20220816 232559970.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Barkeeper's soft cleanser====
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| − | has tarnish remover chemicals in it, works well with really dirty cymbals, say goodbye to your clear coat and labels!
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| − | it has oxalic acid which is great at removing tarnish and green corrosion from salty finger prints (see below), I only use it for the dirtiest cymbals that don't have a clear coat or label!
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Barkeepers paste.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034332124.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − |
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| − | ====Barkeeper's dry cleanser====
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| − | for the filthiest nastiest, grungiest, detritus covered cymbals on the planet!
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Barkeepers powder.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − | I also wash with soap (dish detergent), water and a paper towel after each cleaning to get the residue off before coating.<br>
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| − | '''Sealers protective coatings'''
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| − | ----
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| − | ====Paiste cymbal protector====
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Paiste preotector.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ==== The Last coat====
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Last coat.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Pearl drum & cymbal polish====
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Pearl polish.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034207424.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Pure (no cleaner) Carnauba wax====
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| − | creates protective layer if the clear coat is gone, requires lots of rubbing to get it to shine
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − |
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Lemon pledge====
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| − | creates protective layer if the clear coat is gone, not as effective as Carnauba wax.
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Lemon pledge.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034046439.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====Klasse all in one====
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Klasse all in one.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034438614.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ==== Klasse high gloss sealant glaze====
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Klasse.jpg
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| − | File:PXL 20221021 034416611.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − |
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| − | ====ProtectaClear====
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| − | Oil based clear lacquer
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| − |
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:Protectaclear.jpg
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| − | File:Protectaclear 1.jpg
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| − | File:Protectaclear 2.jpg
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| − | </gallery>
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| − | ----------------------------------------------------
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| − |
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| − | Return to the '''[[Paiste|Main Page]]<br>
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| − | Return to the '''[[Paiste Series|Paiste Series Portal]]<br>
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| − | Return to the '''[[Paiste Cymbal Type|Paiste Cymbal Type Portal]]
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